Whilst it Our recent attentions have temporarily turned in favour of preparing to launch the SHOWROOM Publication Vol.II. Yep, it’s with the printers and will be in stores in the not too distant future. For those unfamiliar with this, last year we published a ‘conceptual mood and reference’ project packed full of moody style shoots, obscure scribings and curious doodlings. Such was the fantastic reception, we did it again.
Alas!, more on that later as we gather momentum by revisiting the archive of Lawrence W Dagger. Dubious 1920s New York detective/Steak House owner Larry Dagger first came to our attention when Douglas Gunn returned from a buying trip to America. In a grubby plastic bag buried at the bottom of a heap in a junk shop, he found an extensive, seemingly autobiographical, scrapbook detailing the extraordinary life and times of a quite remarkable character. Douglas’ account of the file is prominently featured in SHOWROOM Vol.II. (Vol.I is available to order here).
Here is a closer look at the mugshots and criminal identity cards that made up such an interesting part of the archive.
Here is a snippet of some unique jewellery and other adornments we currently have stocked in the showroom. The cabinets in the Earlham street shop are pretty well stocked too. Please contact us for more information.
WWII Silver Sweetheart Bracelets. £poa
Rumour has it, when Francis Ford Coppola was looking for a new film to make back in 1982, it was his daughter Sophia who recommended S.E. Hinton’s teen classic ‘The Outsiders’. Her recommendation was a winner, the all star cast and the coming of age theme, along with a classic wardrobe made it an instant hit.
As with West Side Story, gangs and stylised youth sub-culture never looked so good, in this case it’s the privileged ‘Soc’s’ in their Sta-Prest and Madras checks, versus the white-trash ‘Greasers’ in dirty denim, hooded sweats and cut-off Mickey Mouse tees.
Kicking off our final boots triptych, here is something for the ladies. A pair of womens ATS ( Auxiliary Territorial Service) pebble grain short lace up boots, featuring the distinctive War Department Broad Arrow, or ‘Crows Foot’, stitched into the toe. Very similar in style to our Broad Arrow’d John White boots dated 1941, these have no discernible makers name, but are War Department stamped at the ankle.
The ranks of the ATS swelled dramatically during World War Two as women took over the military roles that were vacated by men sent off to fight. By the end of the war there were over 190,000 members of the ATS, not including the Royal Navy equivalent the WRNS, or the Air Force WAAF.
As a follow on from the Nikolaus Tuczek spats, here are another pair, this time by Anton Penk. It would be rude not to mention the character namesake ‘Spats’ Colombo from Billy Wilder’s inspired comedy Some Like It Hot, played by real-life debonair bad-boy George Raft.
The Donkey jacket comes and goes, but only in trend. We saw a fair few Dalston Donkeys last winter (and only the lord knows what will be next over in the ephemeral East) but, to our knowledge, nobody has quite celebrated these hard-wearing British staples in quite the same manner as the seminal Tuf Work Boot Fashion Show of 1974.
‘Chamois’ and ‘knees’ – two words you don’t often see together, but start to make sense when in a Jodphur-y riding kinda context.
Just in, for all you Flintstones fans, a University of Bedrock sweatshirt. Team it with Converse sneakers and a sabre tooth tiger loincloth for the perfect Summer look! Available now at the Earlham St. shop.
As a follow on from our post about the Hussars tunics we’d like to recommend watching this little known gem from Ridley Scott, his first feature film in fact, based on the novel The Duel by Joseph Conrad. The film revolves around two Napoleonic French officers who pursue a protracted grudge through a series of duels lasting two decades. Keith Carradine and Harvey Keitel play the stubborn duellists of the title, beautifully shot and historically accurate, The Duellists is an enigmatic and stunning visual treat.
Less Harry Hope’s Greenwich village flea-pit booze can and more The Vikings x Seven Samurai.
This new addition to the archive is a hardcore piece. Deadstock cotton canvas shell with leather belt fastening, comes complete with original cutters tag and stencil bearing the legend “Cape Axeman 1942″ with distinctive War Department broad arrow – the wearer of which would not be someone you would want to meet on a dark night axe in hand…
May 29th marked the 60th anniversary of Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent of Everest in 1953. The expedition’s physical achievements are well-known and well documented, no more so than in a beautiful new book The Conquest of Everest : Original Photographs From The Legendary First Ascent by expedition photographer George Lowe, capturing every stage of the attempt on the summit in detail, and notably in colour. In fashion and design terms these photographs are an amazing archive that still serves to inspire in a remarkably contemporary way. The army surplus, Norwegian knit patterns, Sherpa’s traditional garb, and the revolutionary, at the time, new technology of the cotton/nylon windproof suits and oxygen equipment, in sharp contrast with the primitive tweeds worn on the doomed earlier 1924 expedition led by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.
The colour plates, in tone, and their silvery grey paleness are reminiscent of the technicolour cinematography of Jack Cardiff on the 1947 Powell & Pressburger film Black Narcissus, set in the high Himalaya’s.
A St John Ambulance Association triangular bandage [circa 1910s] printed with diagrams of how to use in an emergency, for various breaks and sprains, in differing degrees of seriousness. Trying to replicate some of the origami-like knots and ties, under pressure, would make quite an entertaining challenge. A practical as well as graphic piece of printed ephemera from the early 20th century.
‘TROY’ blanket linings in old American chore jackets, fade and fall apart in interesting ways. Made using re-processed wool they were a cheap and durable way of adding extra warmth to denim workwear. They invoke a spirit of the Old West, Americana, Okies on the move, bedroll campfires, but also chain-gangs, Shawshank and Jailhouse Rock. Here’s a selection of stripes…
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