MARCELLO!

  • May 5th, 2016

ITALIAN_COAT_TVS_BLOG_NS_OCT2015 - 1

This Aeronautica Militaire flight jacket displays all the pomp, flair and panache you would come to expect from an Italian Air Force pilot.

With it’s heavy Prada spec nylon body, a removable blue grey bomber jacket liner with real fur mouton collar and B-15 styling, Riri paper clip zips throughout, could this be more fashion?

Read the rest of this entry »

KWISATZ HADERACH

  • Apr 15th, 2016

IMG_9034

One of the pieces from our last book which we found fascinating was this (relatively contemporary compared to much of our collection) divers shirt. We felt it channeled the stillsuits worn by Frank Herberts fictional Fremen from his epic Dune novels. Worn below by Kyle MacLachlan playing Paul Atreides in David Lynch’s much derided film Dune.

Read the rest of this entry »

BLUEPRINT AMSTERDAM

  • Apr 15th, 2016


image001

If you are in Amsterdam today and tomorrow come and see us at Blueprint show part of this years amazing Denim Days!

 

SMITHS EVEREST

  • Apr 10th, 2016

SMITHS_EVEREST_NS-9555-2

It is most unlikely that the British Mount Everest Expedition members of 1953 gave much thought to the impact that their choice of watch would (still) have over 60 years later. That vintage Rolex Explorers regularly appear on the must-have lists for the Modern Man and the fact that Smiths closed down in 1980 pretty much tells the story of the two watch manufacturers most closely linked to the Expedition.

Read the rest of this entry »

KINGPINS SHOW / AMSTERDAM

  • Nov 2nd, 2015

TVS_WORKWEAR_MANNEQUINS-4418

Just back from an amazing week in Amsterdam at the ever Impressive Kingpins show in Westergasfabriek. As we get to just 24 hours from the Kingpins New York show doors opening, we wanted to share looks from our Amsterdam offering. As always an amazing show and one not to be missed by any in the denim industry. Read the rest of this entry »

DEAR JOHNNY-LETTERS HOME FROM SWEDEN 1977

  • Sep 8th, 2015

JOHN_LYDON_SWEDEN_TOUR-9629-3

Credit where credit is due, it’s down to the beady eyes of Dave Carroll from La Rocka, who spotted the striking similarity of this mid-century American tux with one worn by John Lydon on the Sex Pistols 1977 Swedish tour. Both jackets are cut from a yellow silk damask fabric with black silk revers, and turn back cuffs. Lydon’s undoubtedly an original 50s one also, has been modified by being crudely cropped in half, turning it into an almost razored bolero.

Read the rest of this entry »

WALK LIKE AN EGYPTIAN

  • May 28th, 2015

IMG_8285

Interesting bespoke traveling suit, previously owned by DR. Henry Reginald Hall a well known early 20th century English Egyptologist and Historian.

Read the rest of this entry »

A SCENE IN BETWEEN – KURSAAL SHOES

  • Mar 15th, 2015

NS_IMG_3730_L

A book charting the intricacies of 1980s Indie fashions and a German word with roots in Southend-on-Sea, sounds strange, intriguing, even obscure, but there is a connection. The book, A Scene In Between by Sam Knee, sheds light on the often overlooked scene in-between scenes, that bridged the gap between post-Punk and the acid house of the late 80s, and whose style reverberations are still felt today, and constantly referenced by the style cognoscenti.

Read the rest of this entry »

DENIM DUDES DROPS

  • Feb 6th, 2015

Denim Dudes_3D‘DENIM DUDES – Street Style. Vintage. Workwear. Obsession’ by Amy Leverton unzips the global obsession with denim through the eyes of the men that shape, style, sell and design it. It is a bold statement to say that “denim is the most important fabric of the twenty-first century” but one that surely must resonate with a world in which half of its population, at any one time, is wearing a pair of jeans.

Denim Dudes leaves no sartorial stone unturned in the quest to hunt down the perfect pair of jeans and discover the most desirable denim, asking what exactly makes this once working-men’s fabric just so appealing?

Read the rest of this entry »

EMPEROR OF WYOMING

  • Jan 20th, 2015

10646984_10152924764237500_39201664015745018_n

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20.01.2015

It was a privilege and honour to have known Billy Murphy who kick started me off, as like many others, into a vintage existence that is still going strong today. An innovator and forward-thinker that put American vintage clothing on the map in Britain. A more charismatic man you will never meet; it was a pleasure to know and spend time with him.

Rest in peace Billy.

Words from the heart, Roy Luckett.
(co-founder The Vintage Showroom)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Billy Murphy by Sean Moorman. Courtesy of Paul Gorman 

  • Dec 24th, 2014

Peace and love from all of us to all of you!
CAMO GHILLIE SUIT_IMG_6331

H A P P Y    C H R I S T M A S!!

 

PARKA

  • Dec 22nd, 2014

IMG_8326

Though the preferred cold weather option for RAF ground crew since the 1950’s which often sees them described as such, these parkas were originally intended for pilots rather than those on the ground in vital maintenance roles. The 22C prefix on the labels was used by the Air Ministry from the 1920’s to 1960’s under the general heading of “Clothing and Accoutrements”. Though some codes cross over, generally speaking the 22C prefix referred specifically to RAF flying clothing.

Read the rest of this entry »

‘AROLD’S CHRISTMAS ‘ARRIS.

  • Dec 15th, 2014

HANDS ACROSS THE SEA ­ – AT LAST

  • Nov 17th, 2014

ATLAST&CO_IMG_6791_1

We are very pleased to announce we are now stocking Japanese brand Timeworn Clothing. Established in 2010 by Kei Hemmi, Timeworn encompasses several labels under the same umbrella. At Last & Co. represents the classic workwear pieces and denim, whilst Butcher products covers military and sportswear inspired pieces.

Read the rest of this entry »

‘POSTURE FOUNDATION’ – P.F. FLYERS by B.F. GOODRICH, 1956.

  • Oct 27th, 2014

IMG_4961_l

PF Flyers gained popularity in the 1930s and early 1940s and whilst ‘Center Hi’s’ (pictured) never quite making out of the Converse shadow, the ‘P.F.’ (Posture Foundation) patented insole technology set new benchmarks in sneaker comfort.  The insole technology was first used in BF Goodrich shoes. It involves a wedge-like insert (promoted as the “magic wedge”) that moves weight to the outside of the foot, evenly distributing weight, reducing leg strain. As the success of the sneakers with the Posture Foundation insole technology grew in 1937 it became the basis for the brand name, “PF Flyers.”  Sport styles by PF were very popular in the 1950s, renowned for helping you “run faster and jump higher” courtesy of the “action wedge.” This ability would be a result of the improved fit of the foundation, but similar foundations were finding their way into competing brands, countering the PF advantage.

Read the rest of this entry »

WOVEN TIES

  • Oct 27th, 2014

FRINGE BENEFITS / EVERYBODY’S TALKIN’.

  • Oct 1st, 2014

01.10.2014

It would seem that there as been a lot of channeling of inner Midnight Cowboy’s of late, but as these original b&w stills from the 1969 John Schlesinger directed classic show, Jon Voight takes some beating for rocking the look. Script written by Waldo Salt from the original novel of the same name stars Jon Voight and Dustin Hoffman, and if you haven’t seen for a while it is strongly recommended for another look. The film won three Academy Awards for Best Picture, Best Director and Best Adapted Screenplay, and is often in the shortlist of greatest American movie. Worth watching again for the soundtrack alone, (especially the Jean Toots Thielemans harmonica intro on the John Barry title track), and the late night 1960’s street shots of NYC.

voight-pic-voight_2627599b

Texan Joe and Ratso we salute you and the soundtrack is playing outing the showroom for the rest of the day on repeat!

IMG_5409

Read the rest of this entry »

CUSTOM CARDI’S ARE STRANGE, WHEN YOU’RE A ‘STRANGER’.

  • Sep 29th, 2014

20.08.2014

Albion Kinitting Mills Wool produced these over-length custom letterman cardigans throughout the 1940s/50s and 60s. For personalization, one could have their surname chain stitch embroidered onto a neck label add-on, and full name applied to colour contrasted inner pockets. Ball trinkets an optional extra. Knee-length and extra heavy, these make for great autumn cheerleading outerwear!

IMG_4941_l

IMG_4945_l

Read the rest of this entry »

VINTAGE JP’s

  • Sep 11th, 2014

10.09.2014

Vintage military athletic, or PT shoes are virtually impossible to find. These are a particularly nice US Navy example, and date from the 1940s. The model is virtually the same as the classic Jack Purcell badminton shoe, but with a black rubber sole and trim.

IMG_5010_l
Read the rest of this entry »

1937 BIG TOE.

  • Aug 28th, 2014

01.09.2014

Acquired from an old Kent cobblers (est 1908 and now sadly closed down), these bespoke ‘big toes’ where made for a customer of whom never returned to collect. If you’re out there, get in touch!

IMG_1868_L

Read the rest of this entry »

MR HOBBS OF END STREET

  • Aug 8th, 2014

08.08.2014

This charming illustrated childrens book from 1979 by Virginia Parsons is a thinly veiled commentary on the development of the Covent Garden market, and Seven Dials area of London by big greedy property developers in the 1970s.

IMG_0770_L

For ‘End Street’ you should really read Earlham St., and the hero of the book Mr Hobbs is the proprietor of a hardware shop which is none other than the former F.W. Collins, now The Vintage Showroom, at 14 Earlham Street. Even Mr Hobbs’ unique invention of elastic glue, which he uses to foil the wicked developers, is borrowed from F. W. Collins the original hardware shop owners.

This modern day parable is a halcyon view of days gone by and the innocence of childhood, made all the more pleasant because it was a gift from the Collins family. Thank you!

IMG_0772_l Read the rest of this entry »

LEWIS

  • Aug 7th, 2014

06.08.2013

IMG_8951

GO GREEK IN ’66

  • Jul 25th, 2014

FOUND (VIETNAM)

  • Jul 14th, 2014

14.07.2014

Found photographs always make for fascinating viewing in a socio-political fashion context, these piqued our interest because some date to a pre-Vietnam war Indochina of the 1950s. Beautiful people, great styles. Think Scent Of The Green Papaya and Graham Greene’s The Quiet American and you get the picture…

VIETNAM_14
Read the rest of this entry »

LIBERTY & CO

  • Jul 1st, 2014

01.06.2014

Not the world famous Tudor-clad retailer famous for it’s paisley prints and Arts and Crafts pedigree, but another kind of liberty. The naval souvenir kind, like this dragon embroidered souvenir jacket from the late 1940s.

IMG_9039

Read the rest of this entry »

TVS for ORTA ANADOLU (ARCTIC WHITES/REBEL BLUES)

  • Jun 11th, 2014

11.06.2014

LOOKBOOK_COVERS_low

This year we collaborated on two projects with our good friends at Orta; Rebel Blues and Arctic Whites, which were showcased at Denim by PV in Barcelona last month to an amazing reaction!

From the initial concept meetings with Orta we wanted to showcase some of the huge range of fabrics that they offer their customers by developing two separate collections.

Rebel Blues showcased some of the heritage fabrics in Orta’s collection with their roots in the 1950’s and its sense of rebellion epitomised by James Dean, Brando, Kerouac et al. Part Beat Generation part Wild One mixed of course with a London flavour and a cafe racer/ace cafe feel.

Arctic Whites was a 1920’s inspired collection based on the first women to take to the skies. Amy Johnson, Amelia Earhart and Jacqueline Cochran to name but a few, and the Ice woman herself Louise Arner Boyd whose love of the Arctic inspired the name for the collection. Recreating a wardrobe suitable for these queens of the skies was amazing, playing with early flying jackets and sporting pieces from our archive.

IMG_0049

Vintage pieces were selected from our collection and lovingly reinterpreted by Orta at their Istanbul atelier. Once finished we had the pleasure of working with Claudio Toson who developed and recreated the amazing washes seen across both collections at northern Italy’s Castelfranco Veneto laundry Everest.

The final and most enjoyable stage was shooting the images for both collections in London with an amazing team. Nic Shonfeld photographed Charlotte de Carle (Profile Models) who was the perfect pilot for Arctic Whites and Zoe Basia Brown (Profile Models) and James Alexander Adair (AMCK Models) were our fasntastic couple for Rebel Blues.

Read the rest of this entry »

CHALK WHITE

  • Jun 9th, 2014

09.06.2014

IMG_5647_low_resOff white, not stark or bright, not ivory or buttermilk, just off white, not milk nor cream, the best way to describe it is Chalk White. The pristine colour of those brittle sticks of schooldays that came in card packets reminiscent of cigarette packs. The colour also implies a certain dustiness that chalk gives off, a soft washed texture, pale and powdery. As part of a Summer palette don’t forget to include chalk white, much as Lucien Freud’s colour of choice for painting flesh was Cremnitz White, Chalk White is the perfect accompaniment to washed out blues and dusty yellows.

Words Simon/photo Nic

“THE BLUES AIN’T NOTHING BUT A PAIR OF PANTS”

  • Jun 9th, 2014

24.04.2014

IMG_7931
So Dylan said apparently, so here are some blue (muted in this set) pants, jeans, overalls, bleu de travail etc etc. The de rigeur colour of choice for workwear all around the globe.

Read the rest of this entry »

WHITE LINE FEVER

  • Apr 17th, 2014

17.04.2014

British Army denim ‘overall’ or battledress trousers from the 1950s. All deadstock, and even better all in the distinctive green denim with white selvedge seams.

IMG_7962_1

IMG_7973_1 Read the rest of this entry »

CANARY YELLOW

  • Apr 15th, 2014

15.04.2014

IMG_7899_1

The only way to describe it is a paler, subtler, more soft on the eye yellow. Such is the colour of this Rockall ‘souwester’ and matching hat, and is only enhanced by the honey coloured corduroy collar and slightly golden transparency of the rubber moulded stud buttons. One of several pieces from this little known English nautical brand that produces fishing, sailing attire, and that continue to inspire us with their simplicity of design and functionality.

IMG_7901_1

IMG_7902_1

Read the rest of this entry »

JEAN CLAUDE VANNIER / YVES SAINT LAURENT

  • Apr 4th, 2014

07.04.2014

To coincide with the release of the new Yves Saint Laurent bio-pic, we thought we’d give an illustration of just one of many of Saint Laurent’s creative collaborations. In 1971 Jean-Claude Vannier made an instrumental album to accompany the Autumn/Winter collection of Yves Saint Laurent. Vannier was also a close collaborator of Serge Gainsbourg, he composed Melody Nelson, and he composed several soundtracks for director Philippe Garrel. But we will talk about that later! Here we take at a look at this extract from Roland Petit’s show where a special live version of L’Enfant, La Mouche Et Les Allumettes accompanies YSL’s creations. Stunning, non?

vanniejeanlenfantas101bmm1

EIGHT PIECES OF EIGHT

  • Mar 20th, 2014

20.03.2014
Here are some new jewellery pieces we are currently holding at the showroom, a strange brew of Mexican, Navajo and WWII. Please email for more details – info@thevintageshowroom.com

IMG_6297+low Read the rest of this entry »

SILVER FACTORY

  • Mar 14th, 2014

14.03.2014

Industrial factory glitter glamour baroque pop underground Andy Edie Gerard silver balloons Campbell’s soup Elvis space-age safety protective plastic people crackle tin foil Velvet fire proof fabric. All in one amazing piece is such a thing possible?

IMG_6216_low

The-factory-with-Andy-Warhol Read the rest of this entry »

THE LOOK

  • Mar 7th, 2014

07.03.2014

Jeremy Brett, quintessentially.

Jeremy-Brett-sherlock-holmes-33590956-1600-1375

  • Mar 6th, 2014

06.03.2014

IMG_5649_low

BIBENDUM Vs STAY PUFT MARSHMALLOW MAN

  • Feb 28th, 2014

28.02.2014

cap_ghostbusters_cinebug_5

A cross between the Ghostbusters Stay Puft Marshmallow Man (RIP Harold Ramis) and Michelin’s Bibendum, the much scarier of the two to those familiar with William Gibson’s pattern recognition. These are in fact Air Ministry survival suits for British pilots, and are kapok filled for both warmth and buoyancy.

IMG_2018_low

michelin-man-bibendum-1914
IMG_2039_low
Read the rest of this entry »

ONE, TWO, BUCKLE MY BELT

  • Feb 28th, 2014

IMG_2059_low

IMG_2057_low

MASLAND REVISITED

  • Feb 13th, 2014

13.02.2014

IMG_0267

As a follow on to our piece about American carpet manufacturer turned hunting apparel makers C. H. Masland of Pennsylvania, we’d like to share some recent additions. Unlike other outdoor clothing companies, Masland came to it relatively late, and almost by accident. They had a wartime contract for canvases, clothing and tent awnings, but their main business had always been carpet manufacturing.

IMG_0244

It is perhaps this difference that makes their hunting clothes so unique, and so unlike the typical brands of the era. You can almost see in the garments that they were testing and creating new design features, zipped pockets, press stud fastenings, suede and leather patches, quite often using up their surplus stock of military grade zips and hardware. Unfortunately their foray into the world of outdoor clothing was short-lived, and production soon turned back to carpets, perhaps due to the bigger competition of such greats as Sears & Roebucks, L L Bean, Penneys etc, or perhaps as a result of some of those off the wall design details! Read the rest of this entry »

THE LOOK

  • Jan 28th, 2014

10.02.2014

Part sailor, part fisherman, part debonair film star, all Dirk Bogarde.

DirkBogarde4_1

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL #3

  • Jan 23rd, 2014

21.01.2014

Collection of hunting buttons ‘up close’ and personal depicting foxes, boars heads, deer, horses et al

IMG_4966_low

IMG_4970_low

Read the rest of this entry »

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL : TWEED MOONSCAPES

  • Jan 16th, 2014

18.01.2014

Again exploiting the microscopic detail that is revealed by a macro lens, tweed cloth starts to look like the surface of the moon. Tiny flecks of colour are revealed that make up the bigger palette, almost like a Sigmar Polke spot painting in miniature.

IMG_4977_LOW

IMG_4978_LOW

Read the rest of this entry »

  • Dec 25th, 2013

snoopy-christmas-coloring-pages-4

MERRY CHRISTMAS 1954

  • Dec 19th, 2013

19.12.2013

Trying to get our heads round the craze for ugly Christmas jumpers, the best we could come up with are these more tasteful 1950s designs, featuring classic Nordic and festive motifs, such as snowflakes, reindeer and pine trees. If one must wear a Christmas jumper to the office party PLEASE make it a good one!

IMG_3309_LOW

Read the rest of this entry »

TIMELY GIFTS…

  • Dec 16th, 2013

16.11.2013

IMG_2142_L

RON’S REGENCY REMNANT – NOBLE JONES of BURLINGTON ARCADE

  • Dec 5th, 2013

05.12.2013

A cream silk evening scarf, presumably 1920’s deco era, from glover, hosier and shirtmaker Frederick Noble Jones of Burlington Arcade. We think the centered embroidered monogram spells out RON, but it could be the initials ‘R.N’ with an non-functional embroidered hole in the middle.

IMG_2083_l

The Burlington Arcade is a fantastic relic of regency London. Built in 1819, the arcade is lined with tiny shops under a high glass ceiling/roof and connects Piccadilly and Burlington Gardens. Still to this day patrolled by THE BEADLES (commissioned by Lord Cavendish as the smallest recognised police force) in full Edwardian costume whom are responsible for enforcing the ancient by-laws of the arcade – No whistling, no singing, no hurrying, no carrying large parcel or packages and certainly no opening of umbrellas.

_54699587_burlington Read the rest of this entry »

CALIFORNIA UBER ALLES

  • Nov 29th, 2013

29.11.2013

The term ‘California styling’ refers to a certain aesthetic, and conjurs up iconic, hip images from the history of the golden state. Starting in the post-War boom of the affluent and secure 1950s it seems California developed it’s own distinctive style, part Hollywood part pioneer, perhaps in some way due to it’s own unique weather or geography, or it’s proud independent history. Advertisers were quick to realise the mere word ‘California’ had connotations of space, freedom, sunshine and modernity. Add to this the element of cool, the California of Big Sur Beats, West Coast Monterey Jazz, and The Beach Boys and you have era defining style.

IMG_2175_l

Towns like Anaheim, Tracy, and Glendale are instantly imbued with a faraway Romanticism, American Graffiti and E.T. capture on celluloid some of it’s golden glow, and the folklore of Laurel canyon provides a soundtrack, a synthesis of music, style and sunshine that has created a Universal sun-kissed style still felt today, and seen in everything from Van Dorens, early Stussy and Dogtown and the Z Boys.

Read the rest of this entry »

BOOK DONE GOOD

  • Nov 7th, 2013

07.11.2013

Our first publication ‘Vintage Menswear – A Collection By The Vintage Showroom’ just won the Lifestyle Illustrated Award at the recent British Book Design and Production Awards for 2013. We are more than thrilled to receive such an accolade for something that was essentially a project of passion which gives an insight into what we do, and a team effort by like minded individuals. The fact it has been so well received Internationally is beyond our original expectations, and has inspired us to contemplate taking up the pen again…

Thank you to everyone who has bought a copy and helped make it such a success.

1398180_548057975285710_457223351_o

14 EARLHAM STREET, LONDON

  • Oct 28th, 2013

28.10.2013

The Earlham Street shop recently underwent somewhat of a refurbishment. Here are some snaps…

SHOP_OCT13_IMG_6578

Read the rest of this entry »

SHOWROOM II – PRE-ORDER

  • Oct 11th, 2013

11.10.2013

OK, so here we are. Showroom volume II has just been delivered and is now available to pre-order HERE.

The official launch date is 24th October.

You can find out more info about the publication on the newly re-vamped website – www.showroom-publication.com

Please take a moment to head over to the FB page and help spread the word by ‘liking’ us, if you don’t already. We are really proud of this new volume, we hope we inspire you.

SHOWROOM_II_COVER_blog

AUTUMNALS : HARRIS

  • Oct 10th, 2013

10.10.2013

What can be more appropriate at this time of year than the autumnal shades of a Harris Tweed two-piece gamekeeper suit. A traditional Scottish design it features distinctive styling such as the cut away front, a shorter body length and the scalloped and glove stitched pocket flaps. Partnered with a kilt and sporran it conjures up images from the film Mrs. Brown or The Shooting Party.

Interestingly the jacket shape is not too dissimilar to some of Vivienne Westwoods House of Mud designs, even some of Christopher Nemeth’s creations. Very Buffalo!

IMG_6300 Read the rest of this entry »

THE POP UP FLEA COMES TO LONDON (AND WE’RE ‘POPPING UP’)

  • Oct 7th, 2013

07.10.2013

The Pop Up Flea, the one-weekend-at-a-time menswear shopping event based in New York is heading to London for the first time ever this October. The Vintage Showroom will be en présence for this event so please come down and say hello. We will have a good selection of archive pieces with us. Read on for more details…

-2

‘The Pop Up Flea’ is the creation of New Yorkers Michael Williams and Randy Goldberg. Each year Michael and Randy invite their favorite brands to participate in the event, creating a dream store of handsome and diverse products (see below for the list of contributors). The event is open to the public, and will take place on Piccadilly in Central London over the weekend of 10th and 11th October, and will include a mix of US and UK brands not often seen together under one roof.

For more information visit: www.thepopupflea.com.

Event Address:
211/214 Piccadilly
St James’s, London, W1

Event Hours:
Friday, Oct 11th: 3pm to 8pm
Saturday, Oct 12th: 11am to 7pm
Sunday Oct 13th: 12pm to 6pm

Vendors for this year’s event include : Aether, Field Notes, Filson, General Knot & Co.,Levi’s Made & Crafted, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, London Undercover, Man of the World, Marwood, North Sea Clothing, Red Wing Heritage, Shinola, Tanner Goods, Tellason, The Bread Collective, The Good Flock and Todd Snyder.

FRENCH RESISTANCE – IMPOVISED STYLE IN OCCUPIED FRANCE

  • Oct 1st, 2013

01.10.2013

Further to our recent delves into the archive of SHOWROOM Vol.I, here is a wonderful insight and example of resistance through style penned by regular contributor and ‘antiquous oracle-ius’ Simon Andrews.

FRENCH RESISTANCE  – IMPOVISED STYLE IN OCCUPIED FRANCE – by Simon Andrews.

New York, August 1939, and Time magazine, reporting on the Parisian autumn collections, somewhat prosaically notes that, “whoever runs the world, Paris intends to go on making his wife’s clothes”. However, within a few months, as German forces hovered on the perimeters of France, it was clearly evident that no European city would be able to boldly claim such influence. What was to evolve, by contrast, was a hybrid yet distinct style borne from necessity and infused with covert and symbolic aspects of a defiant national identity.

FRENCH_FTPF_ARMBAND_IMG_8902_r1‘FTPF FFI’ Communist Résistance brassard, white cotton and embroidery, with Phrygian bonnet motif, France, c.1943-1944.

Paris, May 1940, the eve of the invasion, and Lucien François, editor of Votre Beauté magazine, observes that “every woman in Paris is a living propaganda poster”, acknowledging the proliferation of cheerful summer colours, patriotic silk scarves and the use of popular Gallic imagery. However, such buoyant optimism masked the practical realities that necessitated the stockpiling of many materials now deemed necessary for the war effort, and the sober consciousness that fashion, or rather clothing, should now bring considerations of practicality to the fore. Although the Parisian couture houses were to remain operative, supplying a wealthy elite throughout the duration of the war, the humble reality was that most materials – silk, leather, and even wood were rationed by 1941. Prompted by a paucity of materials, the fashion-conscious Parisienne, now obliged to improvise, personalized a distinctive silhouette of high hemlines, towering headdress, and clattering wooden- soled platform shoes – the latter jauntily celebrated in Maurice Chevalier’s `La Symphonie des Semelles de Bois’.

BOOK_IMAGE_IMG_9262 Read the rest of this entry »

MORE SHOWROOM SHIZZLE – ‘AT THE PRINTERS’

  • Sep 27th, 2013

27.09.2013

Here are some mobile snaps taken whilst at Aldgate Press in Whitechapel. We went to see the latest volume of SHOWROOM rolling off the print line. It feels like only yesterday when we were last there having a sneaky peek (getting in the way) at Vol.I.  A year later, here are some sample spreads of Vol.II , to be launched on 24th Octobber 2013. The publication will be available to pre-order online in the next week or so, more details to follow…

IMG_0601_L

IMG_0614_L

Read the rest of this entry »

SUEDE GATSBY

  • Sep 23rd, 2013

23.09.2013
£poa.

IMG_6234_L
IMG_6235_L

STAY GOLD – THE OUTSIDERS

  • Aug 5th, 2013

05.08.2013

Rumour has it, when Francis Ford Coppola was looking for a new film to make back in 1982, it was his daughter Sophia who recommended S.E. Hinton’s teen classic ‘The Outsiders’. Her recommendation was a winner, the all star cast and the coming of age theme, along with a classic wardrobe made it an instant hit.

As with West Side Story, gangs and stylised youth sub-culture never looked so good, in this case it’s the privileged ‘Soc’s’ in their Sta-Prest and Madras checks, versus the white-trash ‘Greasers’ in dirty denim, hooded sweats and cut-off Mickey Mouse tees.

2-bit
IMG_8255_low

Click here for The Making Of The Outsiders’ photographs by Nancy Moran for Vanity Fair.

Read the rest of this entry »

THE ARROW POINTS THE WAY

  • Jul 26th, 2013

26.07.2013

Kicking off our final boots triptych, here is something for the ladies. A pair of womens ATS ( Auxiliary Territorial Service) pebble grain short lace up boots, featuring the distinctive War Department Broad Arrow, or ‘Crows Foot’, stitched into the toe. Very similar in style to our Broad Arrow’d John White boots dated 1941, these have no discernible makers name, but are War Department stamped at the ankle.

IMG_0801_low

The ranks of the ATS swelled dramatically during World War Two as women took over the military roles that were vacated by men sent off to fight. By the end of the war there were over 190,000 members of the ATS, not including the Royal Navy equivalent the WRNS, or the Air Force WAAF.

WA2388235

Read the rest of this entry »

‘SPATS’ COLOMBO

  • Jul 12th, 2013

12.07.2013

As a follow on from the Nikolaus Tuczek spats, here are another pair, this time by Anton Penk. It would be rude not to mention the character namesake ‘Spats’ Colombo from Billy Wilder’s inspired comedy Some Like It Hot, played by real-life debonair bad-boy George Raft.

IMG_9398_low

IMG_9403_LOW

Read the rest of this entry »

N.TUCZEK of BOND STREET (1920)

  • Jun 20th, 2013

THE BLACKSTUFF

  • Jun 12th, 2013

12.06.2013

The Donkey jacket comes and goes, but only in trend. We saw a fair few Dalston Donkeys last winter (and only the lord knows what will be next over in the ephemeral East) but, to our knowledge, nobody has quite celebrated these hard-wearing British staples in quite the same manner as the seminal Tuf Work Boot Fashion Show of 1974.

IMG_8015_low

Read the rest of this entry »

CHAMOIS KNEES

  • Jun 7th, 2013

05.06.2013

‘Chamois’ and ‘knees’ – two words you don’t often see together, but start to make sense when in a Jodphur-y riding kinda context.

IMG_7531_r1

WILMA!

  • Jun 7th, 2013

06.06.2013

Just in, for all you Flintstones fans, a University of Bedrock sweatshirt. Team it with Converse sneakers and a sabre tooth tiger loincloth for the perfect Summer look! Available now at the Earlham St. shop.

bedrock_IMG_7655_l

Read the rest of this entry »

ESSENTIAL VIEWING : THE DUELLISTS (1977)

  • Jun 5th, 2013

06.06.2013

As a follow on from our post about the Hussars tunics we’d like to recommend watching this little known gem from Ridley Scott, his first feature film in fact, based on the novel The Duel by Joseph Conrad.  The film revolves around two Napoleonic French officers who pursue a protracted grudge through a series of duels lasting two decades. Keith Carradine and Harvey Keitel play the stubborn duellists of the title, beautifully shot and historically accurate, The Duellists is an enigmatic and stunning visual treat.

Read the rest of this entry »

THE AXEMAN COMETH…

  • May 31st, 2013

31.05.2013

Less Harry Hope’s Greenwich village flea-pit booze can and more The Vikings x Seven Samurai.

IMG_7488_1

This new addition to the archive is a hardcore piece. Deadstock cotton canvas shell with leather belt fastening, comes complete with original cutters tag and stencil bearing the legend “Cape Axeman 1942” with distinctive War Department broad arrow – the wearer of which would not be someone you would want to meet on a dark night axe in hand…

Read the rest of this entry »

BLACK NARCISSUS – THE CONQUEST OF EVEREST 1953-2013

  • May 29th, 2013

29.05.2013

May 29th marked the 60th anniversary of Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent of Everest in 1953. The expedition’s physical achievements are well-known and well documented, no more so than in a beautiful new book The Conquest of Everest : Original Photographs From The Legendary First Ascent by expedition photographer George Lowe, capturing every stage of the attempt on the summit in detail, and notably in colour. In fashion and design terms these photographs are an amazing archive that still serves to inspire in a remarkably contemporary way. The army surplus, Norwegian knit patterns, Sherpa’s traditional garb, and the revolutionary, at the time, new technology of the cotton/nylon windproof suits and oxygen equipment, in sharp contrast with the primitive tweeds worn on the doomed earlier 1924 expedition led by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

IMG_7504_L

The colour plates, in tone, and their silvery grey paleness are reminiscent of the technicolour cinematography of Jack Cardiff on the 1947 Powell & Pressburger film Black Narcissus, set in the high Himalaya’s.

Read the rest of this entry »

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY PLEASE BREAK

  • May 24th, 2013

24.05.2013

A St John Ambulance Association triangular bandage [circa 1910s] printed with diagrams of how to use in an emergency, for various breaks and sprains, in differing degrees of seriousness. Trying to replicate some of the origami-like knots and ties, under pressure, would make quite an entertaining challenge. A practical as well as graphic piece of printed ephemera from the early 20th century.

IMG_7443l

Read the rest of this entry »

BLANKET LINING

  • May 22nd, 2013

22.05.2013

‘TROY’ blanket linings in old American chore jackets, fade and fall apart in interesting ways. Made using re-processed wool they were a cheap and durable way of adding extra warmth to denim workwear. They invoke a spirit of the Old West, Americana, Okies on the move, bedroll campfires, but also chain-gangs, Shawshank and Jailhouse Rock. Here’s a selection of stripes…

IMG_7417_l

Read the rest of this entry »

AS I WAS GOING TO ST. IVES…

  • May 17th, 2013

17.05.2013

I met a man with seven wives… So the rhyme goes, but I suggest if you are going to St. Ives in Cornwall you should definitely check out the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. These are a few snaps I took of her studio when I was last there. The studio itself is a beautiful space and it has been preserved for visitors to see ‘as it was left’. We have long been fans of her work, and fellow sculptor Henry Moore, and her taste in salmon windcheaters!

coats_l

Read the rest of this entry »

HUSSAR!

  • May 15th, 2013

15.05.2013

French vs English Hussars ‘pelisse’ tunics, although very similar in style, exhibit little continental differences, an extra swirl in the braid, astrakan trim, different buttons and intricate frogging. Our cross Channel cousins example has a certain panache, originally all black (of course) some of the braid has now faded to green, and the back calligraphy would make even Jimi Hendrix* jealous. The English version, an 11th Hussar’s Lieutenants tunic, tailored by Stohwasser & Co., exudes a certain ceremonial swagger, replete with heavy wire gold braid, in knots and swags, and a regal red satin lining.

HUSSARS_NS_IMG_7016* French Hussars Tunic.

Both however share the same genetic traits of 18th century Hussars jackets from middle Europe, when Prussian and Austro-Hungarian cavalry wore these distinctive short Dolman jackets, usually trimmed with fur and decorated with Tyrolean braid knots. Friendly rivalries aside these subtle design differences betray a long and lethal history, but are still undeniably beautiful.

Read the rest of this entry »

I SHALL BE FREE No. 10

  • May 13th, 2013

13.05.2013

“Now, I’m liberal, but to a degree
I want ev’rybody to be free
But if you think that I’ll let Barry Goldwater
Move in next door and marry my daughter
You must think I’m crazy!
I wouldn’t let him do it for all the farms in Cuba”

IMG_7044_L

From Another Side of Bob Dylan 1964, copyright Special Rider Music

LOOKBOOK 2

  • Apr 26th, 2013

26.04.2013

We have just received our latest printed matter, the 2013 Vintage Showroom lookbook. There is something inherently pleasing about opening up the boxes and being hit by the smell of repetitive stacks of fresh print on high quality stock. A nod to our printer at Aldgate Press for another fantastic job, we cant wait for them to get cracking on our next project – SHOWROOM PUBLICATION VOL II.

IMG_5604_L

IMG_5596_L

IMG_5598_l

photos – NS

RESTOCKED

  • Apr 10th, 2013

10.04.2013

The bad news is we produced such a fantastic book that we completely sold out. BOOOOOOOOOO. Good news is that we have just taken delivery of a fresh consignment.  HUURRRRAAAHHH!
Available in our shop, all good book stores and online HERE.

BOOK_COVER_IMG_4447

REINFORCED SHOULDERS

  • Mar 25th, 2013

25.03.2012

Shining a light on recurring design details. A reinforced shoulder is an obvious functional thing that has uses in work clothing, sports, miltary and motorcycle clothing, either to protect the shoulder or the garment (areas of stress and wear) or simply from the elements, sometimes all of these.

GRENFELL_IMG_4404_L

Read the rest of this entry »

SALT AND PEPPER’S HERE

  • Mar 25th, 2013

25.03.2013

So the rap goes in Salt N Pepa’s eponymous 1987 hit Push It. What we have here is an altogether different condiment though, salt and pepper fabrics from around the globe. Similar either just in colour, or in their workwear usage. Their global reach is interesting and show it’s International pedigree. For instance we have black flecked chambray from France, grey Italian prison issue, two melange fisherman knits from these shores, and the unique fleecy flecked weave known as Brown’s Beach Cloth* from across the Atlantic.

IMG_4365

Read the rest of this entry »

THE BAD NEWS BEARS

  • Mar 20th, 2013

20.03.2013

Just unearthed a cache of Little League (literally) team baseball tops. Seems we got the whole team’s jerseys, all chain stitched numbers, woven labels, cat eye buttons etc. The title of course refers to the 1976 comedy film starring Walter Matthau and Tatum O’Neal, about a hapless bunch of teenage reprobates cobbled together to make an unlikely Little League baseball team.

 IMG_4390_l

Read the rest of this entry »

PiLs NO S

  • Mar 8th, 2013

What is it with this logo? We, and countless others agree it’s a modern classic. What better illustration of the home-made PUNK do-it-yourself aesthetic than a handmade t-shirt, scribbled on in marker pen. The best thing about it… the spelling mistake of Images rather than Image. ‘Doh!’

IMG_2162_comp_low

Words Simon/photos Nic Shonfeld

DIRTY PRETTY THINGS

  • Mar 7th, 2013

07.03.2013

A consignment of tie-clips. Silver, gold, initialed and bejeweled – all and each perfect for blinging up your kipper. In the Earlham Street shop as of the morning.

TIE_PINS_P1020384_l

Read the rest of this entry »

THE MEDIUM IS THE MESSAGE

  • Feb 20th, 2013

A wolf in sheepskin clothing, well almost in the case of the painted A-2’s below, but a sheepskin flight jacket in any other fabric, just wouldn’t be the same. 1940s design and functionality in perfect chrome tanned, veg dyed, leather seamed harmony. Designed to keep high altitude bomber crews warm at near freezing temperatures, this was the best performance pedigree fabric available at the time, until the introduction of lightweight quilted and nylon fabrics in the late forties superseded the days of sheepskin flight clothing, and some of the romance of the early days of flying disappeared forever.

Sometimes the medium IS the message….

 el_lobo_576

USAAF A-2 leather jackets, ‘El Lobo II’ belonging to B-17 pilot Richard E Fitzhugh of the 457th Bomb Group, and the 1st Glider Provisional Group patch, both featuring Disney-esque wolves.

Words Simon.

BRITISH ANTARCTIC SURVEY

  • Jan 15th, 2013

15.01.2013

IMG_4459_low

The British Antarctic Survey (BAS) is part of the Natural Environment Research Council based in Cambridge, United Kingdom. It has a long and distinguished history, for over 60 years, undertaking the majority of Britain’s scientific research on and around the Antarctic continent.

The UK’s interest in the region goes back some 200 years in which it has been a leader in Antarctic science and exploration since Captain James Cook became the first person to sail around the continent in the 1770’s. The most famous British expeditions to the Antarctic took place during the so-called “heroic age” at the start of the 20th Century.

Primarily remembered for their extraordinary feats of courage and endurance, the expeditions of Scott and Shackleton had important scientific goals. During the southern winter before the fateful push for the pole, Scott’s expedition gathered large amounts of scientific data. Undoubtedly the most hard won were five emperor penguin eggs, which three men travelled for more than a month in the middle of the Antarctic winter to collect, in the hope they would shed light on the evolutionary links between reptiles and birds.

IMG_4447_comp_low

Read the rest of this entry »

KNOW YOUR MARKS #1 – HARRIS TWEED

  • Jan 14th, 2013

14.01.2013

Recognise your brands, marques to be reckoned with, some instantly recognisable, some a little more obscure. First up is the Harris Tweed Orb logo.

HARRIS-IMG_4391_LOW

Read the rest of this entry »

CHECK UNDER THE COLLAR

  • Jan 7th, 2013

07.01.2013

Button up against the wind with a concealed throat latch, collar tab, whatever you wanna call it…

BUTTON_UP_THROATS_IMG_4424_LOW
BUTTON_UP_THROATS_IMG_4430
Read the rest of this entry »

“Isnt there anyone that know’s what christmas is all about?!”

  • Dec 21st, 2012

SNOW MAIDS COME TO LIFE

  • Dec 17th, 2012

BACK FOR A WHILE

  • Dec 7th, 2012

07.12.2012

A few fresh key clips have just arrived at the Earlham St. shop in time for Christmas. Made using vintage leather, antique buttons and assorted curios. Once we’ve unwrapped them they make a good accompaniment to our selection of vintage watches, watch straps and jewellry.

 

THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR MARCHING

  • Nov 27th, 2012

We have just had these leather boots beautifully restored to an exceptional standard by our master craftsman cobbler. WWII military officers boots, dispatch riders, country stouts and walking shoes with upgraded leather soles and polished patinas. Unique, weatherproof and thoroughly wearable boots and shoes available at 14 Earlham Street as of the beginning of December, with more additions widening the selection in the up-coming months.

Read the rest of this entry »

INTRODUCING ’14’

  • Nov 23rd, 2012

Albeit already tried by A.P.C. Surplus in the golden heyday of ‘doursoux’ finds. These are things we just like and we think merit a second look and more appreciation, in keeping with the shop’s aesthetic and previous life, sometimes modified, sometimes simply re-discovered, appropriated and brought to the fore.

Read the rest of this entry »

ROYAL FLYING CORPS

  • Nov 21st, 2012
19.11.2012
This classic knee length mid tan leather coat with its wrap over style asymmetric front and its distinctive angled map pocket (some 50 years before Belstaff and Barbour et al) is a highly prized new addition to our archive.

Read the rest of this entry »

IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR

  • Nov 16th, 2012

Nothing like a white linen suit better evokes images of Graham Greene’s Our Man In Havana, keeping sartorially sharp under a fierce colonial sun, Jay Gatsby and Jake Gittes, or even the multiple cover images from the 1979 Led Zeppelin album, In Through The Out Door.

Read the rest of this entry »

PEAL BOOTS & TREES (PEAL & CO. BRITISH ARMY OFFICERS BOOTS)

  • Oct 26th, 2012

Founded in 1791 by Samuel Peal, Peal & Co. were shoemakers of great repute with a far reaching global client list that included crowned heads of Europe, Presidents and Hollywood royalty, such as Rudolph Valentino, Fred Astaire, Mr & Mrs Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant and Steve McQueen amongst others.

These Second World War private purchase officers boots have the original Peal’s “S.P.” shoe trees, gold foil blocked logo inside and hobnail soles, and have taken on the patina of polished prize-winning conkers.

Read the rest of this entry »

HISTORY IN STITCHES

  • Oct 15th, 2012

15.10.2012

In an age of computer trickery and retouching at the click of a mouse, here is a reminder of how it used to be done, by hand, lovingly darned, patched and donkey stitched.

Some are more photogenic than others, the tonal landscape of the pin-prick grid pattern, or the Frankenstein-esque clumsy hospital stitches, both display the patient charm of garments that have been cared for and maintained throughout their life, displaying their history in the repair work.

Words Simon/photos Nic Shonfeld

ROLEX EXPLORER ‘SHAKEN NOT STIRRED’

  • Oct 4th, 2012

The Rolex Explorer is significant in the world of wristwatches. It’s pared down simplicity hides it’s unique design details; the clean readable dial, no date indicator, ‘Mercedes’ style hands, Arabic numerals and markers, the 36mm case, non-hacking* movement and 18,000 beats per hour.

It is known as a ‘tool’ type watch and was specifically developed for explorers, most famously used by Sir Edmund Hillary and other members of the successful 1953 Everest Expedition, in addition to numerous expeditions after 1953.

Left to right :  model 6150 Explorer (1956) with gilt dial, and the model 1016 Explorer (1966)

Another famous patron was Ian Fleming who wore an Explorer whilst writing ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ (1963) hence it appears in the novel as Bond’s timepiece cum occasional knuckle-duster. Interestingly, in the film of the novel George Lazenby sported a Submariner rather than an Explorer, pictured below.

Model 5513 Submariner (early 60s) with gilt dial and large indexes on the tracking (1966)

With such a pedigree of heritage, style and performance, it’s hardly surprising the allure of the Explorer continues today with renewed vigour among collectors and fashionistas alike. These days they are not worn so much by explorers on mountains, but rather for strolling along smart Mayfair avenues.

* Hacking/Non-Hacking refers to the feature of a movement whereby the second hand can be stopped for the exact setting of the time. Originally a military term, a hacking movement is one that stops the second hand when you pull the crown to the time setting position. A non-hacking movement doesn’t do this.

Words Roy Luckett / photos Nic Shonfeld

ATP / SEDITIONARIES

  • Oct 3rd, 2012

Jacket’s, Jungle 1945. This British Army womens WWII jungle shirt is eerily reminiscent of the McLaren Westwood ‘Seditionaries‘ parachute shirt, even down to the rubber buttons. The belt looped through the epaulette, the removable sleeves, and the stamped ‘GAS FLAP’ all add to it’s Punk ‘bondage-like’ appearance. The shirt also features wrist buckles, pleated chest pockets, and reinforced shoulders. Completely mint and unissued it’s a great example of the humble origins of some of Punk’s iconic DNA.

* Vintage Seditionaries / Sex Parachute Shirt with iconic silk Karl Marx patch by Malcolm Mclaren and Vivien Westwood &  Only Ararchists Are Pretty – image sources unknown.

Words Simon/ ATP Shirt photos Nic Shonfeld

PHOTOS OF OUR BOOK BY THE PHOTOGRAPHER OF OUR BOOK

  • Oct 3rd, 2012

Here are a few snaps of our limited edition cover edition book by photographer Nic Shonfeld, whom we commissioned to shoot the book for us. Nic has been working closely with us for over a couple of years now and we think the images in the publication are a credit to his understanding of ‘us’ and what we ‘do’ within our industry. You can see more of Nic’s photos on his website here: nicshonfeld.com

You can order a copy of our limited edition collectable cover by clicking the link here:
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/online-store/

Read the rest of this entry »

INTRODUCING SHOWROOM VOL I

  • Sep 10th, 2012

Formally introducing our new publication SHOWROOM Vol.I. on sale now in the Earlham Street shop and other selected bookstores in London (see list below).

ORDER ONLINE

showroom-publication.com
facebook.com/showroompublication

Read the rest of this entry »

VOL 1

  • Sep 3rd, 2012

07.09.2012

We had the launch party for the first volume of SHOWROOM, our new publication, at the shop on Monday evening. All the bods, Beats, art folk, family and friends attended, thanks to all for coming and helping to make the magazine what it is.

Read the rest of this entry »

CATCH-VINGT DEUX

  • Aug 29th, 2012

29.08.2012

Size label in the back neck of a French army mackintosh.

BUM FREEZERS

  • Aug 24th, 2012

24.08.2012

Worthy of closer inspection are these two Dunn & Co. suits from the early 1960s, which are prime examples of the ‘bum freezer’ style, so called because of their shorter silhouette. These are a very British interpretation of Continental styles, particularly Italian, of the late 50s and early 60s, that helped form the basis of the modernist, or ‘mod’ look.

“Now observe the Dean in the modernist number’s version. College-boy smooth crop hair with burned-in parting, neat white Italian rounded-collared shirt, short Roman jacket very tailored (two little vents, three buttons), no-turn-up narrow trousers with 17-inch bottoms, absolute maximum, pointed-toe shoes, and a white mac…” *

Fastidious detail fetishists, Mods cultivated the aspects of cut that defined these so-called ‘Roman’ jackets, the things to look out for are the slim lapels, covered buttons, and two inch side vents seen here. Just the sort of thing the anti-hero of Absolute Beginners would be seen wearing zipping around Soho on a borrowed Vespa.

Read the rest of this entry »

IKAT

  • Aug 14th, 2012

14.08.2012

KARLHEINZ CLIPDANGLER

  • Jul 28th, 2012

28.07.2012

In the manner of Swiss Biker gang maestro Karlheinz Weinberger here are some more one-off key clips. Available now from the Earlham Street shop.

Read the rest of this entry »

ON THE ROAD

  • Jul 25th, 2012

25.07.2012

Cashing in on the topicality of the film release of the seminal Beat book On The Road, here is a ‘Hobo’ Beatnik classic. Based on the wartime Royal Navy short shawl collared duffle coats, this civilian ladies version dates from the 1950s and has a very aptly named label. Often seen sported by Soho Beats, Sorbonne students, poetry reading peaceniks, CND marchers et al…

Read the rest of this entry »

IT TAKES ALLSORTS

  • Jul 20th, 2012

20.07.2012

A nice 1930s stripe blazer, hard to find with wide candy coloured stripes. Definitely a touch of Bertie Wooster meets Bertie Bassett liquorice allsorts kind of vibe going on.

© 2012 THE VINTAGE SHOWROOM. All Rights Reserved.