MARCELLO!

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This Aeronautica Militaire flight jacket displays all the pomp, flair and panache you would come to expect from an Italian Air Force pilot.

With it’s heavy Prada spec nylon body, a removable blue grey bomber jacket liner with real fur mouton collar and B-15 styling, Riri paper clip zips throughout, could this be more fashion?

FUTURE HUNTER GATHERER

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Future-hunter-gatherers, these deconstructed denim-clad nomads and intergalactic tribes are from our latest capsule collection for Orta which will be shown in full at the Barcelona Denim Premiervision show on the 18th-19th of May.

The collection was designed by Douglas Gunn and Roy Luckett, taking reference from the extensive archive at The Vintage Showroom. Rare utilitarian and military garments were reinterpreted using Orta fabrics in Istanbul. The garments were then washed and treated at Everest Textile Technologies in Italy.

Photo shoot starring: Assa, Eloise, Adam and Noah (NII agency)
Photographer – Nic Shonfeld, assistant – Lovisa Ranta, stylist – Harris Elliot, styling assistant – Mimi Fresh, hair – Johnny Russell, MUA – Riona O’Sullivan, Headreses – Polly Playford, Creative Direction – The Vintage Showroom.

With special thanks to Alberto Solito and all the team from Everest for all their help and support in realising our ideas in their beautiful treatments and washes for the collection.

AMSTERDAM DENIM DAYS

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Amsterdam Denim Days were busy last week with Kingpins and Blueprint both pumping with an increase in traffic over previous seasons. The show is gaining momentum and expanding as a B2b hub for seminars and industry insights. This season we had stands at both Kingpins and Blueprint events, plus our one and only Mr Gunn did a talk about how the Vintage Showroom book “changed humanity”, nonetheless.

KWISATZ HADERACH

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One of the pieces from our last book which we found fascinating was this (relatively contemporary compared to much of our collection) divers shirt. We felt it channeled the stillsuits worn by Frank Herberts fictional Fremen from his epic Dune novels. Worn below by Kyle MacLachlan playing Paul Atreides in David Lynch’s much derided film Dune.

SMITHS EVEREST

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It is most unlikely that the British Mount Everest Expedition members of 1953 gave much thought to the impact that their choice of watch would (still) have over 60 years later. That vintage Rolex Explorers regularly appear on the must-have lists for the Modern Man and the fact that Smiths closed down in 1980 pretty much tells the story of the two watch manufacturers most closely linked to the Expedition.

DEAR JOHNNY-LETTERS HOME FROM SWEDEN 1977

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Credit where credit is due, it’s down to the beady eyes of Dave Carroll from La Rocka, who spotted the striking similarity of this mid-century American tux with one worn by John Lydon on the Sex Pistols 1977 Swedish tour. Both jackets are cut from a yellow silk damask fabric with black silk revers, and turn back cuffs. Lydon’s undoubtedly an original 50s one also, has been modified by being crudely cropped in half, turning it into an almost razored bolero.

A SCENE IN BETWEEN – KURSAAL SHOES

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A book charting the intricacies of 1980s Indie fashions and a German word with roots in Southend-on-Sea, sounds strange, intriguing, even obscure, but there is a connection. The book, A Scene In Between by Sam Knee, sheds light on the often overlooked scene in-between scenes, that bridged the gap between post-Punk and the acid house of the late 80s, and whose style reverberations are still felt today, and constantly referenced by the style cognoscenti.

DENIM DUDES DROPS

Denim Dudes_3D‘DENIM DUDES – Street Style. Vintage. Workwear. Obsession’ by Amy Leverton unzips the global obsession with denim through the eyes of the men that shape, style, sell and design it. It is a bold statement to say that “denim is the most important fabric of the twenty-first century” but one that surely must resonate with a world in which half of its population, at any one time, is wearing a pair of jeans.

Denim Dudes leaves no sartorial stone unturned in the quest to hunt down the perfect pair of jeans and discover the most desirable denim, asking what exactly makes this once working-men’s fabric just so appealing?

PARKA

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Though the preferred cold weather option for RAF ground crew since the 1950’s which often sees them described as such, these parkas were originally intended for pilots rather than those on the ground in vital maintenance roles. The 22C prefix on the labels was used by the Air Ministry from the 1920’s to 1960’s under the general heading of “Clothing and Accoutrements”. Though some codes cross over, generally speaking the 22C prefix referred specifically to RAF flying clothing.